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There’s a bus network (tickets 30p) and a fleet of yellow marshrutka minibuses also buzz around town, following set routes (tickets 40p).
Taxis are unregulated; you should agree the fare before you get in, but it’s usually around £3.
When renovations finish in July, you’ll even be able to perform your ablutions here again, just as Pushkin and Dumas did in a no doubt grimier incarnation.
Leading off the baths, follow Fig Gorge along a cool green path to a waterway leading to a tranquil little waterfall (7), where the temperature is a few degrees lower than in the surrounding city – especially welcoming in Tbilisi’s sometimes scorching heat.
On the Mtkvari’s more workaday left side are the atmospheric Bazroba central market (1) and the arty Fabrika boutique and dining hub (2).
Returning to the right bank, swish Vake has some of Tbilisi’s best restaurants and, bordering it, expansive Mziuri Park (3) and Tbilisi zoo (4).
Chicken in walnut sauce and vegetarian pkhali – a cross between a dip and a salad – are on the affordable menu.
Window shopping Ethno Design (15), at 23 Akhvlediani Kucha sells locally-made felt rugs with arresting traditional designs and delicately patterned blue tablecloths using indigenous motifs.
Take a hike Start at the Orbeliani baths (6), in Old Tbilisi, to admire the shimmering blue-tiled facade of this 17th-century building – it looks like a madrasah somehow teleported out of Fes.
The wide, fast-coursing Mtkvari river divides this city of 1.5 million people.
On the right bank, Old Tbilisi is a hub for many visitors, with some of the city’s most compelling historical sights, cafes and bars aplenty, enticing side streets and standout museums nearby.
From the Botanical Gardens, take either metro line or bus 41 from Samgori metro stop to Station Square, where you’ll find the Bazroba (1), the buzzing central market which gives a good insight into everyday Tbilisi amongst the busy food stalls.
Cultural afternoon The National Museum (museum.ge) (21) has spellbinding pre-Christian gold jewellery and other ancient objects on display on the lower-ground floor.